TuscanySub-region

Dimora Ghirlandaio, Tuscany.

A private estate in the olive hills of Impruneta, immediately south of Florence — close enough to see the Duomo, with villas to take individually or the whole place exclusively.

6 villas in the collection1 piece in the journal

Villas in Dimora Ghirlandaio

The whole collection

On Dimora Ghirlandaio

Dimora Ghirlandaio,
from Smaranda.

Dimora Ghirlandaio is our closest estate to Florence: a cluster of houses around the country residence the Ghirlandaio painters kept five centuries ago, in the hills by Impruneta, twenty-odd minutes south of the city walls. Domenico Ghirlandaio taught the young Michelangelo in his workshop; that the family's country seat survives as a place you can sleep is the kind of fact this estate wears lightly.

The position is the point. Impruneta sits on the first ridge of the Chianti hills, so the estate looks and lives like wine country, cypress lanes, olive terraces, the famous local terracotta underfoot, while Florence's museums are a morning decision rather than an expedition. Greve in Chianti, the first of the serious wine towns, is twenty-five minutes south. No other base in the collection balances city and country so evenly.

Impruneta and Its Terracotta

Impruneta's cotto has floored Tuscan buildings since Brunelleschi used it on the Duomo's dome, and the kilns still fire. The town keeps a real weekly life around the Basilica of Santa Maria, an easy first outing from the estate, and the terracotta workshops welcome visitors who call ahead, which we do. In late September the Festa dell'Uva turns the main square into the Chianti's most cheerful harvest festival.

Florence Without Staying in Florence

The estate's guests do Florence the civilised way: in by mid-morning after the tour groups have queued, two hours for one thing done properly, the Uffizi or the Bargello rather than both, lunch across the Arno among the Oltrarno workshops, and home to the pool by four. Twenty-five minutes each way makes a second or third city morning easy, which is the real luxury: Florence in doses, never Florence fatigue. For timing the city days, Florence weather month by month is the guide.

When to come

April to June and September to October, when city mornings and pool afternoons both work. The Festa dell'Uva makes late September special; high summer is for the pool, with Florence kept to early mornings.

Towns worth knowing

Impruneta
The estate's town: the Basilica, the terracotta kilns, a real Saturday market.
Greve in Chianti
The first of the wine towns, twenty-five minutes south; start the Chianti Classico day here.
San Casciano in Val di Pesa
Machiavelli wrote The Prince in exile just outside it; good osterie, few tourists.
Florence
Twenty-odd minutes north. Go in doses: one museum, one lunch, home by four.

Best for

  • Splitting a week evenly between Florence and wine country
  • First trips to Tuscany that want both city and pool
  • Renaissance history sleeping where it happened
  • Chianti Classico days without a Chianti Classico drive home

Practicalities

Florence is twenty to twenty-five minutes by car; guests headed for the centre park at Piazzale Michelangelo or take a driver and skip the ZTL entirely. Greve and the Chianti Classico wine road begin twenty-five minutes south.

Frequently asked

How far is Dimora Ghirlandaio from Florence?
Twenty to twenty-five minutes by car, on the first ridge of the Chianti hills by Impruneta. City mornings and pool afternoons fit in the same day.
What is the Ghirlandaio connection?
The estate grew around the country residence the Ghirlandaio family of painters kept five centuries ago; Domenico Ghirlandaio trained the young Michelangelo in his Florence workshop.
Is the estate in Chianti?
On its northern edge. Impruneta sits on the first Chianti ridge; Greve in Chianti and the Chianti Classico wine road proper begin twenty-five minutes south.
How many houses are on the estate?
Six, from the intimate La Bottega and the converted lemon house Suite La Limonaia to Villa Ghirlandaio itself. They can be taken individually or combined for larger parties.

Field notes on Dimora Ghirlandaio

The whole journal
Florence in a Day: What to See Without the Queues

Dimora Ghirlandaio

Florence in a Day: What to See Without the Queues

Florence as a base, a day trip, and a city to keep returning to. Where to stay, when to go, what to do once you have done the obvious. The editor's perspective on the city you will spend a week working out.

Planning the week

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